Após um longo parênteses, volto à narrativa inicial, da viagem com minha amiga Vicky, até porque tinha interrompido num momento importante para o espírito do blog: a visita a Peel Castle, na Ilha de Mann, lugar que, segundo a pesquisadora Norma Lorre Goodrich, corresponde à verdadeira localização da Ilha de Avalon. Podíamos ver o Castelo da janela do quarto, mas foi preciso esperar dias até que o tempo estivesse bom para visitar as ruínas.
After a long parenthesis, I’m going back to the root story here: the trip with my friend Vicky, actually in an important moment for this blog’s main theme, the visit to Peel Castle in Isle of Mann – Isle of Avalon’s definitive location, according to the researcher Norma Lorre Goodrich. From our hotel room we had full view of the castle, but it took us some days to get good weather to visit the ruins.
The castle stands on St Patrick’s Isle, which is now connected to the town by a causeway. But back in Arthurian days the access was submerged during high tide. This, added to Peel’s typical dense mists explains the difficulty – and the danger – to reach the Isle of Avalon. This photo was taken in one of the few sunny days, in summertime, but the weather is mostly rainy throughout the year, with constant mists.
The weather eventually favoured us, the day before our checkout in Peel. After a nourishing breakfast at the Fernleigh B&B, we walked straight to the Castle, to step on Avalon’s sacred soil at last!
Entrada do Castelo / Castle’s entrance
O Castelo cujas ruínas hoje vemos foi construído no séc. 11 pelos noruegueses, sob o reinado de Magnus Barefooot. As primeiras fortificações dos noruegueses foram construídas com madeira, mas ali já havia edificações mais antigas, dos Celtas, em pedra. Escavações encontraram um cemitério e objetos justamente da época Arturiana, sob os vestígios dos Vikings.
Em manuscritos do Rei da Noruega, de Marie de France e Percival, a descrição da viagem para Avalon coincidem com a de Lancelot. São textos longos, que se encontram detalhados no livro Arthur, de Norma L. Goodrich, que dão respaldo à teoria de St. Patrick’s Isle ( hoje o Castelo de Peel) ser a verdadeira Ilha de Avalon. Ela inclusive fez a viagem checando tais referências.
The castle ruins we visit today was built in the 11th century by Norwegians, under the rule of King Magnus Barefoot. While the first Norwegian fortifications were built of wood, there were older stone Celtic buildings on the island. Excavations revealed a graveyard and objects from Arthurian times, buried below the Vikings’s stuff.
The King of Norway, Marie de France and the Perceval manuscripts all coincide with Lancelot’s description of his trip to Avalon. These are long texts, detailed also in the book Arthur, by Norma L. Goodrich, supporting the theory of St Patrick’s Isle ( nowadays Peel Castle) being the real Avalon. She has actually taken the trip, checking all references.
O castelo foi fortificado e novas posições defensivas acrescentadas até 1860. As edificações estão em ruínas mas as muralhas permaneceram intactas.
The castle remained fortified, and new defensive positions were added as late as 1860. The buildings within the castle are now mostly ruined, but the outer walls remain intact.
Up the stairs, leaving the “modern” part of the Castle, you feel like you’re entering another world.
Estas são as construções mais antigas, conforme o mapa abaixo. Mas, como foi arqueologicamente comprovado, houve ocupação mais antiga…
These are the oldest buildings, as shown in the map below. But, as it’s archaeologically proven, there’s been previous occupation…
A imponente torre redonda era, originalmente, parte do monastério Celta. /
The prominent round tower was originally part of the Celtic monastery
Um dos mais importantes achados arqueológicos no local foi o túmulo da “Dama Pagã”, que incluía um colar e moedas do ano de 1030. Estas peças estão em exibição no Manx Museum, em Douglas, capital da Ilha de Mann.
The most spectacular finds were the 10th century grave of “The Pagan Lady” which included a fine example of a Norwegian necklace and a cache of silver coins dating from about 1030. These pieces can be seen at the Manx Museum, in Douglas, Isle of Mann’s capital.
Do alto dos aposentos do Lorde do século 15, você se sente no topo do mundo.
From the late 15th century Lord’s Apartments, one feels on top of the world.
Cozinha / Kitchen
No improvável caso de um cerco ou invasão, esta saída levava a um ancoradouro por onde as pessoas poderiam fugir de barco .
In the unlikely event of a siege or invasion, this escape route led to a mooring where people could escape by boat.
Aqui o ruído da cidade e dos turistas ficou para trás. O mar, as plantas, as aves, a música do vento e das ondas, tudo poderia ser o mesmo de séculos atrás. Meditando perdemos a noção do tempo; respirando só existe o momento presente.
Here the town and tourist’s noises were left behind. The sea, the flowers, the birds, the song of the wind and waves, it all could be just the same as it was centuries ago. Meditating we lost count of time; breathing exists in the present tense only.
No início do séc.14, o arenito vermelho, abundante na área, foi usado na construção da maioria das muralhas e torres.
In the early 14th century, the majority of the walls and towers were built primarily from local red sandstone, which is found abundantly in the area.
Bateria meia-lua: mais uma construção defensiva do sec. 16 / Half-moon gun battery: one more defensive building
A catedral e a meia-lua / The cathedral and the half-moon
A antiga nave da catedral é atualmente um cemitério. / There is a cemetery in what was once the cathedral’s nave.
After the rule of Norway, the castle continued to be used by the Church, due to the cathedral built there, until the 18th century. This is Bishop Rutter’s tomb, buried in 1661.
A cripta sob a catedral / The crypt under the cathedral
Ficamos no Castelo até a hora de fechar, ou seja, o dia todo. Felizmente, para pessoas famintas, cansadas e com sede, no Reino Unido há sempre um bom pub por perto!
We left the Castle by closing time, meaning, we stayed there the whole day. Fortunately, for tired, hungry and thirsty people, in the UK there’s always a good pub nearby!
Avalon 