
Estávamos entaladas no fim de uma estreita estrada de terra, sem largura para manobrar, no meio do atoleiro que se formara com a chuva que, felizmente, não tinha sido tão forte; assim o carro não estava atolado mas não foi muito fácil subir a ladeira de marcha-ré. Vicky precisou empurrar, e ir andando para o veículo ficar mais leve. Engasgando aqui e ali, consegui chegar até a beira da estrada. Ali se configurou o problema: a grossa camada de asfalto era um verdadeiro degrau e o carro de passeio não queria subir de jeito nenhum! Foi preciso juntar pedrinhas, mato, pedaços de qualquer coisa para tentar atenuar o degrau. Vinte minutos depois, todas enlameadas, começamos a nos preocupar pois começava a escurecer, a chuviscar novamente e a estrada estava deserta. Ninguém viria nos ajudar, apenas talvez os antigos deuses celtas. Para eles começamos a rezar.
We had parked at the end of a dirt road that turned into mud after the rain which, fortunately, hadn’t been heavy, so the car wasn’t stuck. Still, we were down a slope and it was too narrow to make a U-turn. We had to go in reverse. It wasn’t so hard, especially with Vicky pushing the car. Although it coughed a bit, we made it all the way up. We then realized the problem was the thick asphalt road, which next to the dirt, was like a large step; of course we didn’t notice that when we were going down, but now going up in reverse the car wouldn’t climb it. So we began gathering stones, sticks, leaves, anything to create a smoother path. Twenty minutes later, covered in mud from head to toe, we started to worry because it would soon be dark, it was starting to rain again, and the road was deserted. No one would come to help us – maybe only the ancient Druids. To them we started praying.

Não havia acostamento para manobrar. Deixei o carro descer um pouco, virando na diagonal tanto quanto foi possível, para sair dos sulcos já feitos pelos pneus, engatamos a ré, retomamos a subida e quase na beira da estrada meti o pé no acelerador. Demos uma esmerilhada nos pneus, mas depois de alguns tensos segundos, conseguimos. Um pneu traseiro, outro, depois os dianteiros… finalmente se encontravam sobre o asfalto firme. Ficamos por instantes paradas ali, só respirando e agradecendo aos deuses! Digitei no GPS o endereço do Fernleigh, em Peel, e por um tempo parecia que tudo corria bem. Foi quando percebemos que o GPS era tosco, ou talvez o mau tempo afetasse a conexão, o fato é que em algum cruzamento nos perdemos e em vez de chegar em 20 minutos levamos mais de uma hora para estacionar em frente ao B&B, sãs e salvas, ainda que com fome, frio, cansadas e cobertas de lama. O carro, que era branco poucas horas antes, estava marrom. Felizmente era um carro alugado.
There was no shoulder to maneuver. All we could do was let the car go downhill a bit, as diagonally as possible to free the tires from the grooves they had created. We engaged reverse again and put the foot down on the throttle. We still bumped against the thick layer of asphalt, but persisted. After a few seconds of tension, holding our breath and burning the rubber on the tires , we made it. One after another, the four wheels found their way to the solid asphalt road. For a while we just stayed there, breathing and thanking the Druids. I put Peel Fernleigh’s address in the GPS, and for a while everything was apparently well. That was when we realized that the GPS was primeval, or perhaps the bad weather was messing with it. At some crossroads we got lost and, instead of arriving in 20 minutes, we took more than an hour to park in front of our B&B. Safe and sound, though hungry, thirsty, tired and muddy. The car, white hours ago, was now brown. Fortunately, it was a rental.

Precisávamos urgentemente de uma pint, então nos dirigimos ao pub mais próximo. Em Peel não estava chovendo, fomos caminhando pela orla, admirando a iluminação noturna do Castelo, crentes que o visitaríamos no dia seguinte. Sentamos numa mesa próxima ao balcão, rindo muito porque uma das cervejas expostas se chamava Pedro, e Vicky bateu foto para mandar para um Pedro amigo nosso. Lá pra tantas, ainda estávamos bebendo, rindo da aventura no atoleiro, quando dois homens muito bonitos se aproximaram perguntando se podiam sentar conosco. Os recebemos felizes e sorridentes; ambos eram inteligentes, engraçados, e pensamos que os deuses estavam nos enviando um prêmio consolação pelo perrengue daquela tarde. Um era mais velho e outro parecia mais novo, portanto supusemos que fossem pai e filho… só que não. Eram casados há mais de dez anos.
In urgent need of a pint, we walked by the shore to the nearest pub – it was not raining in Peel – admiring the Castle’s night lights. We intended to visit it the next day. Sitting at a table next to the counter, we bursted out laughing because of a beer bottle in the shelf labeled “Pedro”. Vicky took a picture to send to a friend of ours called Pedro. And there we were, still laughing at our adventure in the mud, when two really handsome guys approached, asking if they could sit with us. We welcomed them, smiling happily; both were intelligent, funny, and we thought that the Gods had sent us a consolation prize for the afternoon’s trouble. One was older and the other appeared younger, so we thought they could be father and son… only they were not. They were a couple, married for more than ten years.

Pelo menos a conversa foi muito boa, tanto que bebemos mais pints do que o previsto, e por fim voltamos ao B&B, para tomar um bom banho e ir dormir. O dia seguinte amanheceu sob chuva torrencial. Pela janela do quarto dava para ver o carro ( e quase nada além dele); lavado pela chuva, estava ficando branco novamente! Resolvemos então vestir nossos casacos de chuva e andar até o Museu House of Mannannan, que era ali perto, cujas fotos ilustram este post.
At least the conversation was great, so that we‘ve drank a couple of pints more than we intended to, but eventually walked back to the B&B for a well deserved shower and sleep.
Next day we woke up under heavy rain. We could see the car from our window (and not much beyond it) and it was rainwashed to white again! So we decided to put on our raincoats and go visit the House of Mannannan Museum, just a couple of blocks away, which photos illustrate this post.

The museum is named after the mythological sea god Manannán mac Lir (“son of the sea”) and covers the island’s Celtic, Viking, and Maritime history.

The Museum’s highlight is Odin’s Raven, a recreation of a Viking longboat in two-thirds scale. Odin’s Raven was made in Norway and then sailed to Peel, arriving on 4 July 1979 to celebrate the millenium of Tynwald (Manx Parliament).



The carved animal heads in the stern, in Viking vessels, had divine protection purposes.




Short movies loop in stages, depicting life aspects in different periods




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